As the year is coming to a close, I present one last article on this year’s Zodiac sign, the snake. One point that must be repeated is the fact that under the Zodiac system, the snake represents many quality values, such as longevity, rejuvenation, and fortune. Through superstitions and stories, these values are sought after by the general populous.
In Japan’s case, there are snake deities that can be worshiped at designated shrines throughout Japan, which are especially highlighted during the year of the snake. Earlier this year I covered one by the name of Kyōgawa-sama, who was a savior to villagers during times of drought. Here are a few more.
- Ryūjajin (龍蛇神), the “Dragon-Snake God”, is widely recognized as a worshiped deity at the shrine Ryūjajin Jinja (龍蛇神神社) by the coastal area Seto-ura of Ashibe Town, located in Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture
- Kanahebi (金蛇), the “Golden Snake”, resides in the Kanahebisui Jinja (金蛇水神社) in Iwanuma City, Miyagi Prefecture
- Shirahebi (白蛇), the “White Snake”, is revered in numerous shrines around Japan, including 3 major ones in Tokyo City, Chiba Prefecture, and Nagasaki Prefecture.
- Minokami Sugi (巳の神杉), “Snake of the Divine Cedar tree”, is tied to the legends of of the shrine Oomiwa Jinja (大神神社) in Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture
One in particular, Shirahebi, has many shrines dedicated to it. The story behind this is that the White Snake is a messenger for the deity of good fortune, Benten¹. Other than a messenger, it is also said to be used as a vessal for when Benten himself goes to interact with humans. As many shrines are visited for the sake of benefits such as receiving good luck, protection from disaster, or falling into wealth, the idea of paying tribute to shrines connected to Benten is very appealing, while it’s not unusual for shrines dedicated to the White Snake, due to its connection to Benten, to be held in high regard.


To the left is a shrine revering Shirahebi, which is found in Iwakuni City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. To the left is a statue in the liking of the Shirahebi, with the words “nade Shirahebi” (撫で白蛇, stroking Shirahebi) written below. From Photo-AC.
Just how did Shirahebi benefit humanity in the name of Benten? There are several stories illustrating its acts of goodness to those in need in the form of folklores. For this article, we will look at one entitled, “Jinrikisha ni notta Shirahebi” (人力車に乗った白蛇, The White Snake rides the Rickshaw). An old local tale from Chiba Prefecture, dating back around late Edo period. It gives an example of the many ways, as written in folklores, in which Shirahebi performs its duties. One of the many folklores recorded as important cultural treasure of this prefecture. The following site is where the version of this folklore used is taken from:
Below is the Japanese text, while the English text are translations done by me.
| やけに静かな、そして月のきれいな夜のこと。 上野の不忍(しのばず)の池のわきで、車屋さんがいっぷくしていました。 「今日はちぃっと客が少なかったな。これ 以上ねばっても仕方あるめぇ。 もうここら でひきあげるか。」 | On an unusully quiet night where the moon shone brightly, There was a rickshaw man lounging near the bank of Shinobazu lake in Ueno². “Man, there was so few customers today. Being out here any longer isn’t gonna change a thing. Might as well just call it a day and head on home.” |
| と 腰をあげたところ 「車屋さん、 車屋さん、 布施の弁天様まで 行きてえんだが、 いくらくらいでいっても らえるかねぇ」 と色白できれいなむすめっ 子が聞いてきました。 | Just as he stood up, he heard a voice call out to him. “Mr. rickshaw, Mr. rickshaw!” A young woman with fair white skin approached him. “I’d like to get to Fuse no Benten-sama³ Can you please take me there?⁴ How much is the fare?” |


To the left is a rickshaw being pulled by a rickshaw man, a representative of what is described in the folklore. To the right, a striking image of a pretty young woman, a possible representation of the likelihood in which Shirahebi disguised as. From Photo-AC.
| あまりにもそのむすめっ子がきれいなもんだから、しばらく見とれてしまった車屋さん、思い出したかのように 「だいたい、いくらいくらのけんとうでいかれるよ」 と答えました。 すると、むすめっ子は前金と心づけをすっとわたし、ひよいと車に乗りました。きれいなむすめっ子に前金と心づけまでもらって、車屋さんも大よろこび。 | The rickshaw man was captivated by the young woman’s beauty, and for a moment couldn’t take his eyes off from her. Regaining his senses, he replied, “Customers can typically get a ride despite how much fare they pay.” The young girl paid the fare and tip in advance, and with that, she sat in the cart and they took off. The rickshaw man was in great spirits over receiving both the fare and tip in advance from such a pretty girl. |
| 「しっかりつかまっていてくだせぇ」というが早いか、いちもくさんにかけ出しました。走りながら 「ずいぶんと軽いな。若いむすめっ子だから、こんなもんか。」 おうらいもすくなく車も軽いので、本当ならゆうに一刻(いっとき)半はかかる道のりを一刻かからずに、布施弁天の入口についてしまいました。 | “Hold on tight!” he exclaimed as the cart was traveling faster as he ran at top speed. While running he commented, “Wow, you are very light. Carrying you is no problem, as expected from a young girl.” Pulling such a light customer in his cart, he weaved through the numerous streets with no issues, taking a route that, while normally would take 1 & 1/2 hrs, got them to the entrance of Fuse no Benten in record time of about 1 hr⁵. |

| 車をとめて後ろをふり返ると、ふしぎなことにむすめっ子のすがたがみあたりません。はやく走りすぎて途中でおとしてしまったのではないかと思ったら、むすめっ子がすわっていたところがビッショリぬれているではありませんか おどろいた車屋さんがあたりを見まわすと、弁天山のくらがりをはってのぼっていく白蛇が見えました。 | Stopping the cart at their destination, the rickshaw man turned to his customer, but was confused when he didn’t see her. Just as he was contemplating about the possibility of her falling out of her cart while they were rushing through the streets, he noticed that the seat where the young girl sat was soaking wet. Surprised, he quickly looked around the area, when he spotted a white snake slithering into the shadows of Mt. Benten⁶. |
| うすきみ悪くなった車屋さんは、きた時以上のはやさで上野に帰ったということです。 | Spooked at the sight, the rickshaw man ran back to Ueno in a record speed more faster than that used to get to Fuse Benten. |
What’s the moral of the story? Fortune can come to one’s way when least expected, especially when in need. In the case of the story, this fortune was tied to doing one’s job. Through Shirahebi, Benten tested the rickshaw man’s resolve at a time when he was about to give up and go home due to a slow day with barely any customers. Shirahebi suddenly showed up with a request, and through a little bit of persuasion with paying a generous fare (and using the appearance of a pretty girl), the rickshaw man went over & beyond to carry his customer to their destination. Talk about lucky!
One thing to point out is the matter of the Shirahebi not showing its true form until after reaching Fuse no Benten. This isn’t unusual, for in many folklores deities of all kinds use disguises to interact with humans, sometimes to judge their character, to provide assistance, or help them in times of need. If the person reciprocates and goes accordingly, they are usually bestowed with a well-deserved fortune. The catch is, these deities’ true identity mustn’t be revealed, or else they will be forced to leave, halting whatever blessing or service they were providing. In the case of the rickshaw man, seeing the Shirahebi after receiving his fortune in the form of a generous fare was fine, for he had already completed the task.
ENDING
This marks the final look at this year’s Zodiac sign. Although personally I’m familiar with some of the positive standings the snake has in Asia history, this Zodiac year gave me more reason to do research and learned a great deal of historical information. For Japan, most of these are tied to temples and shrines, linked to deities like Shirahebi. For the readers, I hope you all can say the same as well.
1) Benten, or the full name “Benzaiten”, is a male deity categorized as one of the “Shichifuku Jin ” (七福神, Seven Lucky Gods) in Japan. Originating in Hinduism, then adapted into Buddhism as well as Shintō, this deity was known under different appearances, names and possessed varying benefits. The name “Benzaiten” is written a few ways in kanji, or Chinese characters, such as “弁才天” and “弁財天”. On a related note, since the prevailing image is that of a god representing material fortune, it is not surprising to find the kanji “財”, which means “treasure”, is used in his name.
2) This lake is located in present day Onshi Park in Ueno, Tōkyō City.
3) The label “Fuse no Benten” is linked to a network of three prominent shrines in Eastern Japan called “Kantō no San Benten”. They are as follow:
- Benten-dō (弁天堂), located in Asakusa, Tōkyō City
- Fuse no Benten Tōkaiji (布施弁天東海道), located in Kashiwa City, Chiba Prefecture
- E-no-Shima Benten-dō (江島弁天堂), located in Fujisawa City, Kanagawa Prefecture
While there are more than one way to identify these 3 shrines (over time, different names were given according to circumstances and trends), they all are known as “Fuse no Benten”, which stands for “Charitable Benten”. The more respectful & familiar nickname of “Fuse no Benten-sama” is also common amongst locals.
4) As mentioned earlier, this folklore is tied to Fuse no Benten Tōkaiji in Chiba Prefecture.
5) The explanation regarding this small trip, if taken literally, is no less than amazing. Distance-wise, it’ll take about an hour if traveling from Ueno to Benten Tōkaiji Shrine by car for modern time standards. A rickshaw should take longer even at a running pace. However, since it took an hour in the story, and considering roads were becoming more easier to traverse during the folklore’s time setting, it demonstrates the rickshaw man truly hustled at a superhuman pace!
6) The label “Benten-yama” (Mt. Benten) is used to identify shrines of Benten that are on small hills. The shrine Benten Tōkaiji in Chiba Prefecture is built on elevated grounds, which gives it the impression that it sits on a mountain. This is an important preference, for historically shrines were built on mountains as a means to be “closer” to the gods who reside in the heavens.