皂縵頭中 兵衛 衛士並用
Black silk hat worn on the head. Can be used by both imperial guards and soldiers
Making the black silk hat compact
Paint the rim with black lacquer
NOTES: “皂縵” is pronounced “kurinokatori”. The full way of writing this would be 皂縵頭巾, pronounced “kurinokatori no tokin”. These were worn by elite and warrior families during ancient times in Japan through the influence of Chinese culture.
第三折 － 額ノ上を押開ハ圖のれくある
3rd fold – From the illustration, fold it up in order for the black silk cap to open up and fit on one’s brow
During Tenmu period (673-686), this was considered a crown
Tassels on the Silk hat
The “Ryō no Gige” is an official document that illustrates how the tassels of the kanmuri (crown cap) keeps this hat made of silk firmly together in place near a person’s ears. They hang down on the sides of your silk hat just like our hands at the sides of our legs.
The braiding of these tassels follow that as inscribed in the commentary for the “Chunqiu” (Annotations of the Spring and Autumn Classics)¹.
A rule for the tassels is that each person has to connect the ends together.
1) This commentary is named “Zuo zhuan” (左傳, The Commentary of Master Zuo), which is a short title for the full work “Chunqiu Zuoshì zhuan” (春秋左氏伝, the Compiled Annotations of the Spring and Autumn Classics featuring commentary by Master Zuo)
The above is used by soldiers and guards
From the “Engi Shiki”, it is written that the garment materials used is a thin cloth measuring 3 jo (909.1 cm) . It can also measure up to 2 jo 1 shaku (636.3 cm). A kanejaku (a measuring tool especially good for 90 degree angles) can be used for the measurements.
Painted conifer hide. There are black color types.
shape of collar 5 sun 6 bun (21.28 cm)
3 shaku 7 sun五分 5 bun (142.5 cm)
(Right side of jacket) 9 sun 3 bun (35.34 cm)
(Right collar) 3 sun (11.4 cm)
2 shaku (76 cm)
Single width of fabric (bet. 30-38 cm)
八尺 襟帯 紐
From the sleeves, 8 shaku (304 cm)
Full length, 1 jo (221 cm)
Neckband (thin), 8 shaku (304 cm)
Same as the opposite side
2 shaku 2 sun go bun (85.5 cm)
1 shaku 1 sun (41.8 cm)