BSK 1-2

Pg 1-A

Pg005


皂縵頭中 兵衛 衛士並用
皂縵 小ふ作る

Black silk hat worn on the head. Can be used by both imperial guards and soldiers

Making the black silk hat compact


縁(ヘリ)を黒漆ふて塗

Paint the rim with black lacquer


第一折

1st fold


第二折

2nd fold


NOTES: “皂縵” is pronounced “kurinokatori”. The full way of writing this would be 皂縵頭巾, pronounced “kurinokatori no tokin”. These were worn by elite and warrior families during ancient times in Japan through the influence of Chinese culture.


Pg. 1-B

Pg006_left


第三折

3rd fold


第三折 - 額ノ上を押開ハ圖のれくある
天武紀キ いえゆる
圭冠ある


3rd fold – From the illustration, fold it up in order for the black silk cap to open up and fit on one’s brow
During Tenmu period (673-686), this was considered a crown
Highly honored


皂緌(クリノオヒカケ)
今義解ふ緌ハ冠紞とある。紞ハ縵冠ノ塞耳者と誠文ふ足手叉垂于冠両旁二若(差)シト令之條縄左傳躐キ足手れい令の緌キ纓を一つキをし者としらる

Tassels on the Silk hat

The “Ryō no Gige” is an official document that illustrates how the tassels of the kanmuri (crown cap) keeps this hat made of silk firmly together in place near a person’s ears. They hang down on the sides of your silk hat just like our hands at the sides of our legs.

The braiding of these tassels follow that as inscribed in the commentary for the “Chunqiu” (Annotations of the Spring and Autumn Classics)¹.

A rule for the tassels is that each person has to connect the ends together.


1) This commentary is named “Zuo zhuan” (左傳, The Commentary of Master Zuo), which is a short title for the full work “Chunqiu Zuoshì zhuan” (春秋左氏伝, the Compiled Annotations of the Spring and Autumn Classics featuring commentary by Master Zuo)


Pg. 2-A

Pg006_right


衫(ヒトエキヌ)

上古兵士衛士_用
延喜式衫料細布三丈 又ハ
二丈一尺 曲尺

Upper Garment

The above is used by soldiers and guards

From the “Engi Shiki”, it is written that the garment materials used is a thin cloth measuring 3 jo (909.1 cm) . It can also measure up to 2 jo 1 shaku (636.3 cm).  A kanejaku (a measuring tool especially good for 90 degree angles) can be used for the measurements.


梛皮染 皂色に種あり

Painted conifer hide. There are black color types.


エリカタ五寸六分

shape of collar 5 sun 6 bun (21.28 cm)


三尺七寸 五分

3 shaku 7 sun五分 5 bun (142.5 cm)


九寸三分
三寸

(Right side of jacket) 9 sun 3 bun (35.34 cm)
(Right collar) 3 sun (11.4 cm)


二尺

2 shaku (76 cm)


布一幅

Single width of fabric (bet. 30-38 cm)


八尺 袖二
一丈四尺 身
八尺 襟帯 紐

From the sleeves, 8 shaku (304 cm)
Full length, 1 jo (221 cm)
Neckband (thin), 8 shaku (304 cm)


Pg. 2-B

Pg003_left


同裏

Same as the opposite side


二尺二寸五分

2 shaku 2 sun go bun (85.5 cm)


一尺一寸

1 shaku 1 sun (41.8 cm)


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